While compiling our annual Bite 2014 dining guide, we are always also thinking about how mama used to make the dishes celebrated (and deliciously contorted) by the best local chefs serving up traditional American fare as well as modern cuisines (and some veggies, too, cuz mama says). Click through to begin a new tradition or click the categories below to jump to what you’re craving.
American TraditionalalFrescoThere’s no questioning the unparalleled freshness with which each dish at this Winter Garden resto is infused. A dedicated focus on fresh, local and sustainable ingredients gives rise to remarkable dishes like chicken spiedini atop fattoush salad and pan-seared cobia over Israeli couscous. Add a bit of salt to the cavatelli with plush braised short ribs and you’ll find true comfort. To end, skip the flan and opt for luscious chocolate tres leches instead. 146 W. Plant St., Winter Garden, 407-654-5889; $$$American TraditionalCity Diner411 N. Magnolia Ave., 407-316-8111; $Image viaAmerican TraditionalDexter’sThe three restaurants in the Dexter’s family, longtime favorites of the Orlando brunch and happy-hour scenes, share a flair for giving comfort-food ingredients – pastas, sandwiches, killer sweet-potato fries – an exciting twist in an ambience that’s just right for friends, food and conversation. 808 E. Washington St., 407-648-2777; 558 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-629-1150; and 950 Market Promenade Ave., Lake Mary, 407-805-3090; $$Image viaAmerican TraditionalDoc’s Streetside GrilleYou’ll be hard-pressed to find a more carefree, and scene-free, bar and grill. A diverse lot, with more than a few medical professionals, gathers at Doc’s to kick back and partake in cookery that’s a notch above standard everyday bar fare. Adding a good-natured lounge pianist makes the decent nachos, burgers, flatbreads and pulled pork sandwiches taste all the better. Housemade desserts are an unexpected bonus. Free parking in the lot off Fernwood Street. 1315 S. Orange Ave., 407-841-3601; $$American TraditionalHamilton’s KitchenInside the impressive Alfond Inn sits this equally handsome kitchen, serving a focused (and pricey) selection of Florida-inspired creations. Seafood, like skin-on monkfish atop a wondrous corn succotash or delicately fried Kumamoto oysters, complements black truffle-kissed Buckhead Beef filet and a damn fine lacinato kale Caesar. Make room for indulgent butterscotch pudding infused with 12-year-old Macallan scotch, or a less-heavy fresh fruit en fata. Interesting wine list. Alfond Inn, 300 E. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-998-8089; $$$$American TraditionalHash House a Go GoBig flavors, a big menu and great big portions of “twisted farm food” are what you’ll find at I-Drive’s new destination. Breakfast is the star here – the signature tower of chicken and waffles is a miracle of engineering, as well as a comfort-food classic – and you can get it all day, but don’t overlook tasty lunch and dinner. 5350 International Drive, 407-370-4646; $$American TraditionalHillstoneA short menu compensates with huge portions, especially desserts. Pork ribs, steaks, chicken and a fish of the day (and a very popular grilled artichoke)are served in a wood-accented, masculine setting with a lake view from every seat. You’ll likely spend some time on the lovely tree-dotted lawn if you don’t make a reservation. 215 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-740-4005; $$$Image viaAmerican TraditionalMcCoy’s Bar & GrillA sanctuary above the OIA’s main terminal, this modern bar and grill is a must-stop for savvy travelers. Cool digs and a focus on local sourcing were part of a recent makeover, but the recipe for their signature crawfish chowder hasn’t changed, thankfully. The traveler’s trio (three small plates) makes an ideal pre-flight meal, as does their signature burger (the bacon is sublime) or mac & cheese with roasted poblano. Don’t get lost indulging in the frozen soufflé and brownie silk pie – you might miss your flight. 9300 Jeff Fuqua Blvd., 407-825-1234; $$$American TraditionalNOPA GrillWith a still-heady wine list and desserts to satisfy all tooths, this former wine/dessert bar has transformed into quite the inviting resto with an ambitious menu, comparatively speaking, to boot. Richly flavored roasted duck legs and an above-average crab cake are wonderfully executed, as are Med-leaning flatbreads and a weighty Bangkok red snapper over mashed potatoes. Cakes are towering and made for sharing. 155 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-740-4040; $$$American TraditionalPark Plaza GardensA longtime Winter Park favorite, this is the place to go for ambitious dishes served in a classy atmosphere. Hang out on the sidewalk and check out the beautiful people, sidle up to the intimate bar, or go all-out at the patio “room” in the back. 319 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-645-2475; $$$$Image viaAmerican TraditionalRusTeak Restaurant & Wine BarDon’t let the voluminous menu fool you – most of the dishes created by the proficient kitchen of this Ocoee gastropub are top-notch. If the lamb porterhouse is ever offered as a special, pounce on it. They also know how to cook fish to perfection. Other highlights: Tuscan steak flatbread and the hefty half-pound RusTeak burger. 1568 Maguire Road, Ocoee, 407-614-3765; $$American TraditionalTap Room at DubsdreadHistoric dining destination on the grounds of Orlando’s oldest public golf course offers simple, impeccably prepared dishes. Pot roast makes an ideal meat-and-potatoes nosh, fish and chips are simple comfort food, and homemade Key lime pie is a must. 549 W. Par St., 407-650-0100; $$$Image viaAmerican TraditionalWhite Wolf CaféWith its quirky setting and easy pace, this antique-market-turned-bar-and-cafe is a landmark hangout. The menu is eclectic, with burgers, Middle Eastern fare and flatbreads, as well as entrees like lobster mac & cheese and cedar-plank salmon. 1829 N. Orange Ave., 407-895-9911; $$Image viaAmerican Traditional310 Lakeside/310 Park SouthThe Park Avenue bistro has a trendy, people-watching vibe, while the Lake Eola location features a more understated, leisured pace. Well-executed dishes like pan-seared snapper with a magnificent fennel and olive tapenade garnish and beef tenderloin flatbread are as much a draw as the outdoor dining. Desserts are revelatory. 301 E. Pine St., 407-373-0310; also 310 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-647-7277; $$$ModernAvenue GastrobarRaucous downtown boozer aims to lure both guzzlers and gastronomes with specialty cocktails, rotating craft beer selections and gastropub-ish eats at fair prices. Starters like umami-laden mushroom mac & cheese and tater tots slathered in Mornay sauce hit the bullseye; mains like over-breaded chicken & waffles and blah chicken pot pie. The “Rebel” cheese-filled burger we tried fared much better. If you have to have a sweet ending, consider the fried Oreos. 13 S. Orange Ave., 407-839-5039; $Image viaModernCask & LarderWith a commitment to nose-to-tail cookery and a fine selection of accessible-but-atypical cuts, this “Southern public house” has already reached legendary status. Occupying a landmark building, James and Julie Petrakis’ latest venture serves terrific nouveau-Southern fare – grilled lamb heart, ethereal pork belly, foie gras-stuffed quail and a country-ham tasting flight, to name just a few. Pair your meal with a brew from in-house cicerone Ron Raike or a craft cocktail. 565 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 321-280-4200; $$$Image viaModernThe Chef’s Table/The Tasting Room at the EdgewaterKevin and Laurie Tarter have built a culinary empire within the confines of the Edgewater Hotel’s ground floor. The intimate Chef’s Table and lower-key Tasting Room both feature superbly executed dishes, and the opportunity to banter with the chef make these Winter Garden eateries must-stop fixtures on the local foodie trail. 99 W. Plant St., Winter Garden, ?407-230-4837; $$$$Image viaModernCress RestaurantBeard award-nominated mathematician-turned-chef Hari Pulapaka has the formula for success: fusing traditional and multicultural approaches with organic ingredients. The delicately crisp roasted-vegetable bisteeya is beautifully executed; the signature salad offers a representative sampling from their garden; and a bacon-wrapped Kurobota pork chop is a delicious Everest to scale. Desserts are simple to a fault. 103 W. Indiana Ave., DeLand, 386-734-3740; $$$Image viaModernCrooked Spoon GastropubCrooked Spoon’s progression from food truck to brick-and-mortar has elevated Clermont’s dining scene, thanks to a steady focus on local sourcing and deft execution of down-to-earth gourmet dishes. Crunchy duck confit tostadas, Indian-spiced chicken and waffles and a manageable portion of bacon-wrapped meatloaf are pleasing enough to draw diners from Orange County. The burgers are just as good as they were in the food truck days. House-made desserts change often, as does the rotating selection of local and craft beers. Open daily. 200 Citrus Tower Blvd., Clermont, 352-404-7808; $$ModernK RestaurantThe restaurant tucked into a cozy bungalow reaches a grand level of food and service; chef and owner Kevin Fonzo (the “K”; see page TK) creates dishes that are both simple and elegantly delicious, often using ingredients from the garden behind the kitchen. From salad to starter to main course, everything hits the right note, surpassing the restaurant’s already sterling reputation. 1710 Edgewater Drive, 407-872-2332; $$$Image viaModernLuma on ParkFoodies are hot for the innovative fare at this Park Avenue star. The atmosphere is lively and suitable for large parties, especially at the chef’s table. There’s a great wine selection, a creative cocktail menu, and the smaller plates encourage sharing. Or go for one of the fabulous entrees, such as red snapper with English peas, watermelon radish squash and black quinoa. The exquisite dessert menu stands alone, as does the weekend brunch. 290 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-4111; $$$Image viaModernPrimoCelebrity chef Melissa Kelly brings her organic, locavore philosophy down from Maine to open a second Primo in the enormous JW Marriott Orlando. From free-range local guinea hen to stellar pork saltimbocca, care is taken – and provenance is listed – with every ingredient, and it pays off on the plate. Prices are in the very high range, but for a special meal Primo beats almost any spot in town. 4040 Central Florida Parkway, 407-393-4444; $$$$Image viaModernThe Ravenous PigThe frills are as sophisticated as the fare at this Winter Park gastropub; diners swoon over the Gruyère biscuits. Scallops with caramelized cauliflower puree, roasted foie with cinnamon ice milk and and rabbit rillettes with pea tendrils underscore creativity and talent in the kitchen, as do mains like a lamb trio of loin, bacon and sausage. Desserts are uniformly rich and rave-worthy. 1234 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-2333; $$$Image viaModernSantiago’s BodegaDeeply attractive dining room serves a bevy of tapas and small plates. While prices are ponderous, many dishes – like beef tenderloin carpaccio, yellowfin tuna ceviche, patatas bravas, and short ribs coated in a cherry-hoisin glaze – are as accomplished as they are pricey. The extensive, expensive wine list impresses, but so does the plain old house red. Don’t miss out on the bread pudding fashioned from croissants. Open late. 802 Virginia Drive, 407-412-6979; $$ModernScratch TapasA big-city feel permeates the small space, and the ambitious dishes coming out of chef Dustin Haney’s kitchen set a high standard, be it roasted beet carpaccio or deftly grilled, crispy-skinned branzino. Splitting a small plate of luscious pork belly adobo over black rice could be a trying exercise – no one will want to share – but polishing off dark chocolate torte and vanilla bean crème brûlée is effortless. 223 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-325-5165; $$ModernSouth & YorkChef-owner Edgar Cruz raises the bar for restaurants in Winter Springs, but has the capacity and talent do so much more – and with less truffle oil. His gnocchi and lamb loin starters showcase the kitchen’s skill, as does the plush dry-aged New York strip served over roasted peppers. Wildly competing flavors in the burger bring things down to earth, but it’s an issue of balance sure to be sorted out soon. 158 Tuskawilla Road, Winter Springs, 407-327-1600; $$Image viaModernThe TableA 22-seat restaurant modeled after a dinner party gives one of the more interesting dining experiences in the city. A sumptuous five-course meal with hors d’oeuvres and wine pairings awaits those willing to foot the all-inclusive $100 per person bill; you take your chances on the company, but the food is deftly and deliciously executed. Grab a cocktail at the Table’s sister operation, Pharmacy, after your meal. Open Fridays and Saturdays, with one 7 p.m. seating. 8060 Via Dellagio Way, Suite 106, 407-900-3463; $$$$Image viaHealthyCafé 118The raw-food movement sprouts at Cafe 118, where uncooked vegetables, nuts and seeds supplant all manner of cooked comestibles. Macadamia- and cashew-based “cheeses” are central ingredients in crunchy chiles rellenos and refreshing basil “pasta” purses, while portobello steak takes on the appearance of filleted tenderloin, right down to the “pan juices.” Fresh fruit-and-vegetable juices, like beet and green apple, are splendid and desserts, especially the chocolate-hazelnut tart, are sublime. 153 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-389-2233; $$$Image viaHealthyDandelion Communitea CaféMore than 30 organic loose-leaf teas are offered at this socially conscious teahouse that’s become a gathering ground for nonconformists, neo-cons and everyone in between. A predominantly vegan menu of wraps, salads and an outstandingly hearty chili will satisfy even the most ravenous of carnivores. Start with garlicky hummus with hemp seeds, “roll or bowl” a variety of veggie-grain combos, and finish with the fluffernutter sandwich – a sweet proposition. 618 N. Thornton Ave., 407-362-1864; $Image viaHealthyEthos Vegan KitchenCreative, satisfying meatless fare is the norm at this all-vegan restaurant. Mac and cheese is gratifyingly gooey, and segues nicely into sheep’s pie with its generous heaping of fluffy mashed potatoes. Their second location offers more room, a sophisticated bar and an expanded menu. Sunday brunch is a welcoming and tasty gathering for all palates. 601-B S. New York Ave., Winter Park, 407-228-3898; $Image viaHealthyGarden CaféThe creative kitchen works exclusively with meatless options to create satisfyingly deceptive Asian dishes like orange chicken and salt-and-pepper “ribs.” Some fool the taste buds while others need a die-hard vegetarian’s appreciation, but you won’t find a more satisfyingly toothsome stir fry than the Hong Kong style “eel” or satay “lamb” anywhere. 810 W. Colonial Drive, 407-999-9799; $$Image viaHealthyHouse Blend CaféLattes and cappuccinos aren’t the only items worth sampling here. Above-average café fare includes the jerk chicken burrito, beef-and-Brie sandwich and breakfast waffles, not to mention freshly made desserts. All of HBC’s profits go toward community service projects in Orange County and around the world. Customers are encouraged to help out, so be sure to inquire if interested in more than just a cup of joe. 10730 W. Colonial Drive, Ocoee, 407-656-7676; $Image viaHealthyLoving HutFormerly a dark cave of a Vietnamese restaurant, the tiny building has been transformed into a sparkling-white temple of oddly delicious vegan dining. The environmentally friendly Loving Hut offers a win-win proposition: Along with more typical Asian options like “noble rice” and “saintly stir-fry,” the menu is stocked with snacks like cheesecake, “golden nuggets” and “happy dogs,” but it’s all vegan. Don’t miss the fresh spring rolls or the “coconut delight.” 2101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-5673; $Image viaHealthyPower House CaféFounded in 1970, the simple eatery with an active lunch counter is what used to be called a “health-food restaurant.” A Middle Eastern focus shows in the fattoush, tabbouleh and shawerma on offer, but the menu is mostly skewed toward healthy, natural proteins and salads, along with the delicacy that single-handedly revived the blender – the smoothie. 111 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 407-645-3616; $Image viaHealthyThe Smoothie RoomExperience fresh, no-additives vegetable-and-fruit juices and smoothies without having to get out the peeler or clean the juicer. Whether you think fresh juice offers health benefits or just like the way it tastes, raw foodists, vegans, vegetarians and omnivores will all find something to love at this art-filled SoDo hangout. 25 W. Crystal Lake St., 407-250-4894; $Image viaHealthyVitality BistroBlended smoothies and fresh-squeezed juices please the hard-core health enthusiast, but there’s something for everyone at this cheery café – everyone not bent on keeling over with clogged arteries, anyway. Veggie burgers, soups and pastas (including a nice pad thai) fill the extensive menu; Sunday brunch is extra festive, with pancakes, French toast, breakfast burritos, coconut yogurt-dressed fruit salad and even mimosas stirred up with organic OJ and organic champagne. 301 N. Baker St., Mount Dora, 352-735-8411; $$Image via
