In many ways, 2019 was the Year of the Immigrant, especially in the food scene. Restaurant owners were both targets of racism and accused of cultural appropriation. Issues of “authenticity” drove chefs to silence or got them into hotter water. (Like running a restaurant isn’t hard enough!) But food has a way of bringing us together. José Andrés, an outspoken critic of the current administration’s immigration policies, not only found a way to serve food in disaster zones through his World Central Kitchen, but managed to find the time to pop in to Orlando for the grand opening of Jaleo.

What 2019 ultimately showed us is that the face of the city’s restaurant scene is changing and changing for the better. The influence of Asian cuisine is undeniable with restaurateurs Johnny and Jimmy Tung, Sonny Nguyen, Henry Moso, Chau Trinh, Jason and Sue Chin, Sunny Corda, Lewis Lin, Hoi Nguyen and many more leaving their indelible gastronomic mark. Immigrant food shines in Orlando and a glint is reflected in the list below. Here, then, are the very best new restaurants – and eight best new bites – to hit the scene in 2019.

By Faiyaz Kara

No. 1 New Restaurant: Tori Tori 720 N. Mills Ave., toritoripub.com opened Oct. 16 Some of the year’s best dishes came courtesy of meats grilled over binchotan coals at this slick Mills 50 cocktail bar (yes, it’s a bar – don’t call it a restaurant) by Sonny Nguyen of Domu fame. The sheer variety of yakitori and kushiyaki offered at Tori Tori presents a carnivore’s dilemma, but trust me, deciding whether to order another plate of chicken skin with tare or whole Japanese flying squid is a good problem to have. Now, there’ll be those who won’t like the whole process of ordering food from a bartender, being handed a number, then left to search for a hard-to-come-by seat to await a runner to deliver your eats (and drinks). To you, I say this: Don’t be such a whiny pillock. Suck it up or you’ll miss out on dining in Orlando’s best new restaurant. Er, bar.
No. 2 New Restaurant: Jaleo> Disney Springs, jaleo.com opened March 17 It didn’t take very long for Jaleo to establish itself as the best restaurant inside the Culinary Circus Maximus of Disney Springs, and not just for the name recognition of José Andrés or because Jaleo’s D.C. outpost was a 2019 James Beard Award finalist for Outstanding Restaurant. No, local and visiting gourmands alike come for Spanish eats both traditional and postmodern, with Andrés protégé Rodolfo Guzman commanding the kitchen. Chef’s tasting menus, highlighting the regional diversity of Spain, are equal parts whimsical and serious: Anchovy- and piquillo-stuffed Gordal olives served alongside a molecularized “liquid” olive, for example, or pata negra “tacos” filled with Ossetra caviar. The fancy Josper oven spits out supremely tender meats and, naturally, paellas and gin-tonics play an important role in Jaleo’s offerings. Of greater significance perhaps is that Disney Springs finally has its centerpiece restaurant.
No. 3 New Restaurant: Kabooki Sushi Sand Lake 7705 Turkey Lake Road, kabookisushi.com opened May 1 At the wizened age of 29, Henry Moso has become one of the city’s most forward-thinking sushi chefs, having wowed guests at his East Colonial Drive restaurant with extravagant multicourse omakases. Now his blinged-out brand of high-end Japanese dining is wowing the deep-pocketed denizens of Dr. Phillips, and dazzled they are. The space, in its 50 shades of sultry, is seductive; the menu of cold and hot tastings is indulgent; and splurging on one of Moso’s prodigious omakases is an essential experience for sushi lovers. The sweet Okayama hotate topped with a green apple aguachile and watermelon pearls with a yuzu sunomono was the best thing I’ve put in my mouth this year.
No. 4 New Restaurant: Susuru 8548 Palm Parkway, susuruorl.co opened Jan. 3 Look past the way-cool manga paraphernalia and fun decor steeped in 1950s Japanese nostalgia and you’ll find cooks hunched over binchotan coals searing some of the best yakitori anywhere. Unique cuts of chicken like the achilles (the lower thigh), knee cartilage and tail add a dimension of adventure, but street snacks like yuzu street corn and tori senbei (crispy chicken chips) have broader appeal. There are ramens too, of course, the most notable being a not oft-found tori paitan featuring a 24-hour chicken broth reduced to a rich, creamy, tonkotsu-like consistency.
No. 5 New Restaurant: Proper & Wild 155 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, properandwildwp.com opened Jan. 29 Chelsie and Jamie Savage continue to push the bounds of vegan cuisine in this city – just ask the scores of vores both herbi- and carni- who hold the couple’s Sanctum Café in a similar regard as Angelenos hold Sqirl. In Proper & Wild, their handsome, high-end restaurant off brick-lined Park Avenue, the Savages get creative with their plant-based offerings: chickpea fries with Madras almond aioli, “heartcakes” served with a panang remoulade and a yellow curry-kimchi burger with its East-meets-Far-East flavors.
New Restaurant Honorable Mention: Makani 8255 International Drive, facebook.com/makaniorlando opened Aug. 16 The sheer number and variety of chandeliers and lighting fixtures in the city’s first (to my knowledge) Egyptian restaurant is reminiscent of the showroom at Lightstyle of Orlando, but the fare – be it kebda, the Alexandrian street food specialty of pan-fried beef liver marinated in a host of spices, or koshary, the Egyptian national dish of black lentils, chickpeas, rice, macaroni and spaghetti in a tangy tomato sauce topped with fried onions – proves most illuminating. The mixed grill served atop a golden hotbox with burning embers might be the most gorgeous way to enjoy meat in Orlando.
No. 1 New Best Bite: Nashville hot chicken sandwich at Swine & Sons The Nashville hot chicken sandwich at Winter Park mainstay Swine & Sons (which moved into the Local Butcher earlier this year) improves on the original by smoking the chicken before breading and deep-frying it to perfection. Served on grilled buns with house-made pickle slices and creamy Alabama-style white barbecue sauce, they’re spicy, juicy, crunchy and sssssssmokin’ – they had it all over late-summer’s over-hyped fast food chicken sandwiches.Photo by Louis Rosen
No. 2 New Best Bite: Sweet Okayama hotate at Kabooki Sushi Sand Lake The sweet Japanese scallop prepared by chef-owner Henry Moso as part of his omakase is seriously orgasmic. It floats in a green-apple aguachile, capped with watermelon pearls and beatified with a yuzu sunomono salad.Photo by Kabooki Sushi Sand Lake/Instagram
No. 3 New Best Bite: Lamb chops at Cafe 34 Istanbul The majestic heap of meat in the “Ottoman Pleasure” is made even more majestic by the inclusion of the most wonderfully charred, luscious, lip-greasing lamb chops ever.Photo by Faiyaz Kara
No. 4 New Best Bite: Tuorlo d’uovo fritto at Ravello The fried egg yolk that guest chef Enrico Pivieri of Il Cavallo Scosso in Asti, Italy, prepared at Ravello’s White Truffle Dinner back in February was served with a Castelmagno cheese fondue, tomato confit drops and plenty of white truffles from Alba.Photo by Faiyaz Kara
No. 5 New Best Bite: Paccheri amatriciana at Sette Thick, chewy, house-made noodles have the perfect texture, but Sette improves on perfection with their amatriciana, a tomato-based sauce with cured pancetta (like bacon, but betta), onion and chili flakes that add some heat.Photo by Sette/Instagram
No. 6 New Best Bite: Tako mole from the Agave Azul x Kabooki Sushi Omakase Ko-Lab In early December, chefs Juan Rios and Henry Moso presented a unique omakase combining Mexican and Japanese techniques and flavors. In these tacos, rounds of Spanish octopus were set in an incredible 42-ingredient mole along with a dusting of Mexican five spice and a wakame salad.Screenshot via Agave Azul Orlando/Facebook – Click here to see the video.
No. 7 New Best Bite: Grilled scallops at Mama Lau va Oc Served in the shell, the scallops came with a spicy-sweet sauce and a dollop of fish roe, as well as fried onions, but the unexpected bomb of flavor came courtesy of the coral (that is, the ovary) that was still attached. Biting into the sweet, briny, egg-filled sac drew comparisons to foie.Photo by Faiyaz Kara
No. 8 New Best Bite: Sisig at Taglish I fell in love at first bite at chef Michael Collantes’ new Filipino-American restaurant inside the Lotte Plaza Market food court with the sisig, crispy pork pan-seared in garlic, tomato, onion and jalapeño, served over garlic rice, topped with a poached egg and a drizzle of garlic mayo. The poached egg adds richness, and splashing on a bit of spicy vinegar brings out all the strong, rich flavors even more. (Pro tip: Make it a combo with two crispy lumpia and a purple ube horchata.)Photo by Louis Rosen
Notable 2019 opening: Alex’s Fresh Kitchen 1015 S.R. 436, Suite 109, Casselberry, 407-636-5048 A family-owned and -operated breakfast and lunch joint in Casselberry, serving fresh, made-to-order meals daily, using locally sourced ingredients, with vegan and gluten-free options. Executive chef and owner Alex Diaz comes from a family that loves to cook, and says “it’s been one of the greatest joys of my life to see my culinary interests as a young man blossom into the deep love & passion I have for food today.” His priorities are family, food, and community. Even his mother, Deborah “Deb” McDowell, makes all of their gluten-free pastries & desserts. Photo via Alex’s Fresh Kitchen
Notable 2019 opening: Bagel Bruno 3405 Edgewater Dr., 407-601-2914 Bagel Bruno, the much-anticipated collab between Pizza Bruno and Foxtail Coffee, forst opened in November, offering six “Montreal-style” bagel varieties, all vegan. The dough contains no egg or honey, is naturally leavened, and is poached in dark brown sugar before being hearth-baked. Six varieties will initially be served — plain, salt, rye, sesame seed, everything and cinnamon-golden raisin — after which, Zacchini says, seasonal varieties will make their way onto the menu. A bevy of sammies (and Foxtail’s coffees, of course) will also be served. Photo by Allysha Willison
Notable 2019 opening: Delaney’s Tavern 1315 S. Orange Ave., 407-849-0801 SoDo’s newest boutique hotel has a worthy hotel restaurant that doubles as a neighborhood hang for denizens of Delaney Park. The bar is low-key yet inviting, and the lounge area makes an ideal spot to enjoy a menu of the globe’s greatest hits – shrimp and grits, vegan paella, brie en croute, blue crab beignets and more. And the cocktail game is strong. Open daily. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: Dexter’s New Standard 1035 N Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-629-1150 A new location and a fresh take on the old Dexter’s Winter Park, now in a new locations and offering main courses like eggplant Napoleon, clearwater barrel fish, roast chicken, bone-in ribeye and the DNS Burger, with Swiss cheese, pickle, garlic aioli, dijon, fried shallot, and hand cut fries. Ingredients are sourced from local farms and producers, including Waterkist Farms in Sanford, Zenn Naturals in Mascotte, Frog Song Organics in Ocala and Nearby Naturals in downtown Orlando. Photo via Dexter’s New Standard/Facebook
Notable 2019 opening: Domu Dr Phillips 7600 Dr Phillips Blvd., 407-630-6163 First and foremost, know that Domu makes their own noodles, and there’s no takeout, “to maintain the integrity and quality of the food.” Domu originally started in November of 2016 in the Audubon Park District of Orlando. Created by chef-owner Sean “Sonny” Nguyen, his vision was brought to life with a neighborhood restaurant and bar that offered house-made noodles, creative takes on small plates and seasonal cocktails. Domu is a slang term for “a dream come true” and the ambiance supports that ideology of going against the grain and creating something unique. It’s an opportunity to witness true Japanese techniques performed by a modern-day chef. Photo via Domu/Facebook
Notable 2019 opening: Elize Restaurant 55 W Church St., 407-401-8811 Known as the Rusty Spoon, it was one of Orlando’s best restaurants, before being sold by William and Kathleen Blake to Michelle Lagerweij, who changed the name to Elize. The Rusty Spoon opened in 2011 drew critical acclaim, but the new owner is no novice. Lagerweij is from the Netherlands, where, in the city of Utrecht, she owns a restaurant similarly named Cafe Elize. She has already taken the menu in new directions. Photo by The Rusty Spoon
Notable 2019 opening: Hinckley’s Fancy Meats East End Market, 3201 Corrine Drive, 786-671-1023 Matt Hinckley, a champion of responsible agricultural practices, brings a wealth of experience to his East End Market meat shop, where his display case of smoked meats, terrines, rillettes and pâtés often stops folks in their tracks. Some mighty fine sandwiches can be had too, notably the crackling porchetta on ciabatta and a banh mi made with duck liver pâté. Photo by Robb Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: Hourglass Social House 2401 Curry Ford Road, 407-930-7308 Straddling the line between café and food hall, the Hourglass Social House offers a diverse array of food options – Mexican, Vietnamese, French pastries, vegan handhelds – not to mention beverages aplenty. Foxtail Coffee gets the morning crowd jacked, while the market stocks a nice selection of wine, beer, kombucha and juice. Bottomless mimosas are served on weekends from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Open daily. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: Hungry Pants 3421 S Orange Ave., 407-412-6300 Orlando’s first self-described “plant-curious, fast-fine eatery,: the menu is designed to be “100% plant-based, 80% of the time.” Local food entrepreneurs Joey Conicella and Alex Marin want to know “are you plant-curious?” Located in the heart of SODO (South of Downtown Orlando) Hungry Pants offers customers a plant-curious menu in a fast-fine setting. They define plant-curious as “interested in experimenting when it comes to food, especially whole and balanced foods like vegetables and alternative protein sources.” They say being plant-curious means still enjoying your favorite comfort foods without judgment, promising “something for everyone,” whether you are a carnivore or an omnivore, or somewhere in between. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: Kaizen Izakaya 54 W. Church St., 407-316-8500 It’s out with the old and in with the new as the old Amura on Church Street gets a long-overdue rebrand. You’ll find all the trendy pan-Asian trappings of the modern izakaya – ramen, Korean fried chicken, bao, donburi – but quality cuts of Japanese fish as well. The moriawase gets you 14 pieces for $35, but don’t overlook Korean staples like that KFC and a comforting bowl of kimchi yaki-udon noodles. Open daily. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: Lisbon Portuguese Cuisine 7600 Dr Phillips Blvd., 407-635-0002 Owner and Chef, Rui Borges, was born in Sao Miguel, Azores, an autonomous region off the coast of Portugal. He immigrated to New Bedford, Massachusetts in the early 1980’s, before morning to Florida in 2004, where he was able to realize his dream by opening the only Portuguese restaurant in Orlando. Lisbon is a Portuguese restaurant serving “authentic cuisine at its very best.” Simple but elegant food is complemented by the restaurant’s Azulejo décor, a characteristic element of Portuguese culture. They serve fresh fish and seafood alongside a vast selection of Bacalhau (salted cod) and meat dishes. Their Adega (wine cellar) offers a selection of some of the best Portuguese wines. They also serve a rendition of the famous “Pastel de Nata,” which they proudly bake daily. Enjoy an old-world gastronomic experience to the sound of Fado, Portugal’s soulful sound at Lisbon Portuguese Cuisine. Photo by Lisbon Portuguese Cuisine/Facebook
Notable 2019 opening: Makani Egyptian 8255 International Drive, 407-723-1243 Prices are steep, but Makani’s fare celebrating Egypt’s contributions to world cuisine are top-notch. In addition to street food staples like carb-heavy koshary, spiced kebda (beef liver) and hawawshi (pita stuffed with minced beef), there are plush kebabs, earthy stews and syrupy sweets. Fresh fruit juices supplant alcoholic beverages. Hookah is offered on the patio. Open daily until 2 a.m. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: MX Taco 207 N. Bumby Ave., 407-730-5241 A modest Milk District taco stand where rubbing shoulders with fellow taco fiends is as sure a bet as meat juice dribbling down your chin. It’s got a great vibe – a vibe that Ryan Manning, a ginger-haired chef with boyish looks, has managed to make feel, dare I say, wholly “authentic.” He may have the outward appearance of a young Boris Becker but, inside, Manning’s as Mexican as Pancho Villa. A favorite among the seven tacos offered: the Michoacán carnitas with confit pulled pork and Pueblan chicken mole poblano draped in crema, cotija cheese and sesame seeds. From Oaxaca comes a deceptively filling and earthy veg taco with sweet potato, beans and a mix of crimini, clamshell and button mushrooms. Photo via MX Taco
Notable 2019 opening: The Old Jailhouse 113 S. Palmetto Ave., Sanford, 407-548-6964 An ambitious restoration and renovation easily makes this restaurant the most stunning in all of Sanford. Chef Bram Fowler’s “Sun Belt Cuisine” highlights everything from Southern California to Louisiana to Lowcountry staples. Cocktails are taken just as seriously here as the wine list. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: Paris Banh Mi Cafe Bakery 1021 E Colonial Dr., 407-866-2012 Paris Banh Mi Café Bakery is family-owned, authentic French bakery offering breads, pastries, desserts, coffee and Boba drinks made with the finest and freshest of ingredients. Their bakers start work before the sun rises each day. The warm smell of baking often escapes onto the street before they’ve even opened. Try starting your morning with their warm croissants, banh mi and a cup of Vietnamese coffee. Walk through the doors and let the sweet smell of sugar, spice, almonds, and cream wash over you. Take a look in the bakery case and take some goodies home to share. Photo by Paris Banh Mi Cafe Bakery/Facebook
Notable 2019 opening: Sette Italian 1407 N. Orange Ave., 407-704-7771 This Italian concept by Se7en Bites owners Va and Trina Gregory-Propst offers plenty of rustic bites and comfort, from house-made pastas like one-noodle lasagna and mushroom pappardelle to addictive arancini and “pot roast” risotto. Desserts, as expected, are of the epic variety. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: Sushi Pop Winter Park 115 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 321-203-2282 The new Winter Park outpost offers the classic Sushi Pop dinner menu, but also features a special lunch pop-up called “Chauhaus.” Chef Chau Trinh says the menu consists of “my mamma’s pho, spring and summer rolls, banh mi, grilled meats with rice and rice noodle dishes, and her Bun Bo Hue (pho’s gangsta tattooed cousin).” A smaller menu for lunch will have some sushi and poke bowls, but the focus will be on pho and the Vietnamese food Chau grew up with. It’s traditional southern Vietnamese pho, elevated. Photo by Sushi Pop Winter Park/Facebook
Notable 2019 opening: Taglish Lotte Plaza Market, 3191 W Colonial Dr., 407-930-1076 Taglish is a blend of Filipino-American cuisine that marries the tastes of both worlds in a fast-casual setting, with bowls, wraps, salads and more. Located in the Lotte Plaza Market food court. Photo by Taglish/Facebook
Notable 2019 opening: Veranda Restaurant 1700 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-730-9190 The veranda-less Veranda presents Eastern European cuisine from Moldova and Romania, from such peasant staples as mamliga (polenta cakes served with salty cheese crumbles and sour cream) to Ottoman-influenced meat rolls and mince patties. For the less adventurous, Italian dishes (think pastas and pizzas) are also offered. Open daily. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Notable 2019 opening: Z Asian Vietnamese Kitchen 1830 E. Colonial Drive, 407-601-6024 Mills 50 Vietnamese joint shuns the 100-plus-item menu in favor of a focused bill of fare. Soups, be they stellar duck noodle, seafood, bún bò hue or pho, are laboriously fretted over. More interesting items to consider: pan-fried rice flour, Vietnamese crepes, and an herbal tea dessert beverage with Chinese dates, seaweed, red beans, jelly and longan fruit. Don’t overlook the wings. Closed Mondays. Photo by Rob Bartlett