This was always going to be a banner year for restaurant openings in Orlando. We waited with breathless anticipation throughout the last year for much-ballyhooed boîtes by such ballyhooed chefs as Art Smith, Ashley Nickell, Clay Miller, James and Julie Petrakis, Norman Van Aken and Rick Bayless to open in 2016. All, as expected, did – and while a couple of them failed to live up to expectations (sorry, Restaurant ASH and Frontera Cocina), most of them, luckily for us, lived up to the hype.

Trend-wise, we still aren’t in the same place as much of the country – we didn’t see menus veer toward veggie-leaning entrees, nor did we see a move to no-tipping policies, but boy, did we take our relationship with ramen to the next level. And the outlook for 2017? Well, it won’t be a year dominated by celebrity chefs, though we do have two notable restos – Luke’s Kitchen + Bar (by Brandon McGlamery) and Kadence (from the trio behind Kappo at East End Market) – to look forward to. Local restaurateur Stefano LaCommare will come out of retirement (just when he thought he was out, they pulled him back in) to open Nonno’s Ristorante Italiano in Altamonte Springs early next year, while farmers-market regulars Hunger Street Tacos and popular mobile purveyor Bem Bom will set up brick-and-mortar operations. Disney, naturally, will also vie for the attention of the food-conscious public with Paddlefish, the Edison, Wine Bar George and the Polite Pig (by the Petrakises).

Until then, let’s celebrate the very best restaurants of this banner year. Here, then, are the Top Tables of 2016. – 

 

Top Table DoveCote 300 N. Orange Ave., 407-930-1700, dovecoteorlando.com, $$$$ Having worked with such legendary names as Boulud, Keller, Cardoz and Van Aken, and having been named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs of 2010, Clay Miller wasn’t about to let his fine pedigree go for naught. At DoveCote, Miller’s nouveau brasserie, the menu scintillates with classic, modern, even Colonialist takes on French cuisine (oh that Vietnamese stew!). With a cocktail program fashioned by Courtesy Bar’s Gene Zimmerman and a stunning interior design mashup courtesy of Lot1433’s Andrew White, the restaurant has made the ground floor of the Bank of America building a bona fide dining destination once again. 2. 1921 by Norman Van Aken 142 E. Fourth Ave., Mount Dora, 352-385-1921, 1921nva.com, $$$$ Photo by Rob Bartlett
Top Table 1921 by Norman Van Aken 142 E. Fourth Ave., Mount Dora, 352-385-1921, 1921nva.com, $$$$ There’s arguably no bigger name in Florida’s gastronomic Rolodex than Norman Van Aken – so no surprise, then, that the legendary chef aims a spotlight on the culinary essence of the Sunshine State at his latest venture, 1921 by Norman Van Aken. He and his protégé, chef-prodigy Camilo Velasco, materialize that essence (with requisite flurries of fusion) onto plates in refined and dazzling ways, be it dumplings swelling with a mousse of spiny lobster and rock shrimp, or pan-roasted duck breast with mole and trumpet mushrooms anointed in a guava-ancho jus. Like the modernist works and furnishings that fill the quaint Mount Dora restaurant, the plates here are unquestionable masterpieces, and the wine list curated by Scott Geisler may very well be one of the finest in Florida.
Top Table Pizza Bruno 3990 Curry Ford Road, 407-906-8547, pizzabrunofl.com, $$ Last year, it was Bavaro’s Pizza Napoletana in Winter Springs that hit our eyes with their big pizza pies, but this year we were damn near blinded by the beauty of Pizza Bruno’s “neo-Neapolitan” wonders. A Ferrari-red Pavesi oven fires them out in 90 seconds in the traditional fashion, but it’s the toppings combining trusted and novel flavors that entice Old World purists and tattooed millennials alike to shred a pizza topped with maple syrup, blueberries and guanciale, or charred peaches, romesco, pickled jalapeños and Volpi soppresata. Bruno’s pies are what Instagram dreams are made of. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Top Table Bulla Gastrobar 110 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-214-6120, bullagastrobar.com, $$$ It’s quite easy to drown out the raucous atmosphere when your senses are occupied by the mighty fine Spanish cuisine served out of Bulla Gastrobar’s cocina. Chef Felix Plasencia, former executive sous-chef of Bulla Gastrobar in Coral Gables, works closely with Bulla Coral Gables executive chef Miguel Rebolledo, who spent some time working under Ferran Adrià at the legendary elBulli in Roses, Spain, as well as with José Andrés at Bazaar Meat by José Andrés. The result: revelatory ensalada de pulpo, succulent pinxto moruno and “huevos Bulla” – a fragrant mess of eggs, homemade potato chips, Serrano ham, potato foam and truffle oil. A bountiful list of Spanish wines (and Jerez sherries) further justifies Bulla’s appearance on this list. Photo via Bula/Facebook
Top Table The Sanctum Café 715 N. Ferncreek Ave., 407-757-0346, thesanctumcafe.com, $$ The culinary conjurers inside the sanctum sanctorum of the Sanctum have managed the rare feat of luring not just dedicated vegans into their inviting digs, but a steady stream of flesh-weary meat-eaters and flexitarians as well. The fact that the restaurant will soon double in size is a testament to the consistently gratifying, nourishing and healthy meals offered. If I were to cut meat out of my diet, I’d gladly subsist on nothing more than Sanctum’s bowls of greens and roasted cauliflower reddened with harissa and chunked with beets, candied walnuts and sultanas slathered in cumin-tahini. Yes, owner Chelsie Savage and her team deftly disprove the notion that meatless and wheatless equates to tasteless. Photo by Rob Bartlett
Honorable Mention Jimotti’s Restaurant 2545 S. French Ave., Sanford, 407-952-3329, jimotti.com, $$ When Junichi Takazoe up and left his post as head sushi chef at Morimoto Asia to open a neighborhood izakaya in Sanford, it was a risky move, to be sure. But the cocksure chef was confident that those with an appreciation for good Japanese food and drink would notice, and they did. Their reward? How about deftly fried chicken kara-age, or comforting Sakura and Kurobuta sausages served over a mustard sauce with pea tendrils and a beet slice? Simple, yes, but the dishes also exemplify Takazoe’s focus on quality ingredients and technical precision. His grilled yellowtail was easily the most succulent we’ve had this year. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable The Tennessee Truffle 125 W. First St., Sanford, 407-942-3977, facebook.com/thetennesseetruffle, $ Southern fare and French technique fuse at chef-owner Nat Russell’s down-home Sanford resto. His biscuits and gravy might be the best in Central Florida, and the same could be said of his maque-choux and creamed corn. Biscuit sandwiches, like the BLT and chicken salad, are wholly satisfying, though be wary of palate-shreddingly firm biscuits. A scoop of house-made ice cream (brown butter and buttered popcorn, specifically) is the way to end. Breakfast and lunch only. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Fuel BBQ 120 S. Park Ave., Sanford, 407-328-4848, facebook.com/FuelBBQSanfordFL, $$ Southern fare and French technique fuse at chef-owner Nat Russell’s down-home Sanford resto. His biscuits and gravy might be the best in Central Florida, and the same could be said of his maque-choux and creamed corn. Biscuit sandwiches, like the BLT and chicken salad, are wholly satisfying, though be wary of palate-shreddingly firm biscuits. A scoop of house-made ice cream (brown butter and buttered popcorn, specifically) is the way to end. Breakfast and lunch only. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Farm & Haus 3201 Corrine Drive, 407-801-1698; farmandhaus.com, $$ Cooked fresh daily, the husband-and-wife team of Brittany Walsh-Lyne and Patrick Lyne at Farm & Haus provide a rotating menu of nutritious and delicious weeknight meal options, Monday through Thursday. Photo via Farm & Haus/Facebook
2016 Notable Chroma Modern Bar + Kitchen 6967 Lake Nona Blvd, 407-955-4340 chromalakenona.com, $$ The cornerstone restaurant of the Lake Nona Town Center doesn’t seem to veer far from Tavistock’s other Lake Nona resto – Canvas Restaurant & Market – insofar as their menu is concerned. “Modern American” fare is what’s promised with “healthy and indulgent” options.The 256-seat restaurant has been purposefully designed to foster an environment where guests can “connect, dine and unwind.” Photo via Chroma Modern Bar + Kitchen/Facebook
2016 Notable Domu 3201 Corrine Dr., 407-960-1228, facebook.com/domufl, $$ This top-notch ramen spot, operating out of East End Market, also serves a killer brunch every Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., with bottomless boba mimosas and Bloody Marys. Photo via Domu/Facebook
2016 Notable King Bao 710 N. Mills Ave., 407-237-0013, facebook.com/kingbaoorlando, $ While the steamed buns themselves aren’t fresh (they’re bought frozen, sorry), the crunchy, succulent or spicy meats they cradle are, be it kimchi fried chicken, Korean short rib or braised pork belly. Tater tots are the sole side, but if you have room for dessert, fried bao with sweet fillings are available. Closed Sundays. Photo via King Bao/Facebook
2016 Notable Park Cafe & Bakery 400 W. New England Ave., Winter Park,407-401-2088 parkcafebakery.com, $ Hannibal Square is not Constantinople, but the neighborhood’s Park Café & Bakery might very well be the first establishment in town to serve traditional Turkish breakfast plates, and they’re an absolute delight. Mehmet Gurkaynak, one of the two Mehmets that ran Maitland’s Shish.Co Mezze & Grill, left the Turkish kebaberia to open this inviting outdoor café, and sunrise staples form a majority of the offerings. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Earls Kitchen + Bar 4200 Conroy Road, 407-345-8260, www.facebook.com/pages/Earls-Kitchen-and-Bar, $$ As in other cities, Canadian import Earls Kitchen + Bar “unchains the chain” with way-cool interior design, and that verve finds its way into the kitchen as well, with a menu of global greatest hits ranging from bibimbap to poke and chimichurri steak to Cajun chicken. English sticky toffee pudding makes a great ending (just ask for more toffee sauce), while an above-average cocktail program keeps it interesting on the libationary front. Open daily (until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays). Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Black Rooster Taqueria 1323 N. Mills Ave., 407-601-0994, blackroostertaqueria.com, $$ Tacos at this Mills 50 taqueria are carefully and authentically constructed, with bracing epazote in the vegetarian taco, pickled chile poblano and Oaxaca cheese in the beef-and-bacon asada, and earthy achiote in the pork taco. A texturally brilliant kale salad is out of the norm, but well worth ordering, as is a stew of beef shoulder achiote with aji panca. The chocolate-chipotle flan will leave a lasting impression. Closed Mondays. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Bartaco 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-801-8226, facebook.com/btdrphillips, $$ Beach-themed taquería fuses Mexican tradition with Latin, Mediterranean and Asian flavors and, for the most part, does so successfully. Tacos are on the small side, but when corn tortillas are filled with such succulent meats as duck confit in tamarind glaze, rotisserie pork pastor, and soy-, sesame- and sriracha-marinated Angus ribeye topped with kimchi, substance tends to trump size. Vegetarian options (falafel, cauliflower, portobello) abound, but don’t overlook other items like kicked-up, creamy guac and grilled corn rolled in lime, cayenne and cotija. Cocktails please even when desserts don’t wow. Open daily. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Gideon’s Bakehouse 3201 Corrine Dr, gideonsbakehouse.com, $ After dishing out more than 2,000 pounds of cookies and cake slices in less than one month, Gideon’s Bakehouse moved into East End Market last October and we’re glad they did. If you haven’t sat at the “cookie bar” you’re blowing it. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Canvas Restaurant & Market 313615 Sachs Ave., 407-313-7800 http://canvaslakenona.com, $ Dishes like burrata with caramelized stone fruit, Floribbean grilled shrimp salad, and succulent apple-bourbon braised short ribs steal the scene. A burger fashioned from short rib and brisket is extraordinarily moist. A respectable wine list warrants careful perusal, and Key lime pie with toasted meringue is a must.. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Homecoming Kitchen 1602 E. Buena Vista Dr, 407- 560-0100 homecomingkitchen.com, $$$ Art Smith is no stranger to the limelight – he gained fame as Oprah Winfrey’s personal chef, appeared on Top Chef and Top Chef Masters, has won two James Beard Awards, is involved in numerous restaurants, and has cooked for many heads of state, including heads of this state Jeb Bush and Bob Graham. Photo by Rob Bartlett
2016 Notable Nova 1409 N. Orange Ave., 407-745-4080 http://novaorlandorestaurant.com/, $$$ Ivanhoe Village “it spot” talks the talk and walks the walk when it comes to local sourcing, and luckily for us, chef Val Domingo is as capable cooking those ingredients as he is sourcing them. Even a slight underseasoning couldn’t mar a wonderful (though pricey) chunk of duck-fat fried chicken or fillet of grouper. Salads, like a refreshing heirloom tomato salad, shouldn’t be overlooked, nor should tacos filled with panang curry-braised short rib. Open daily. Photo by Rob Bartlett