Chef-owned joints are scarce in these parts. What a shame. The mark of a city’s cuisine, after careful consideration of ethnic places, often rests upon its neighborhood chefs. One such spot that’s been around for almost four years is Logan’s Bistro.
I didn’t like Logan’s when they opened in 2002. Over the years, though, I have come to appreciate Logan’s as a solid eatery. I recently started going back, and the first thing I noticed is the hoppin’ crowd that makes for lively atmosphere, kind of like a community pub. Darrell, one-half of the husband/wife team who owns Logan’s, always greets guests at the door, and if you come in often, he’ll remember. At first, his overly eager smile seemed like an act, but now I realize he’s just a really friendly guy. There are still some things I’m critical of the art, high prices, a cluttered entranceway but they’ve ironed out the kinks that really matter.
A long bar fills one wall, which makes for a great place to pop in alone or with a friend and share a light bite while watching whatever they have on TV (usually the Food Network or sports). The room’s center, dimly lit and brightly painted, is the main seating area, but they also have café tables outside along Virginia Drive.
The menu is extensive, with appetizers, soups, salads, quiches, pasta dishes and what they call “the grill dishes,” which are an eclectic array of protein-starch-vegetable menu items.
Goat cheese cheesecake ($8.50), a specialty from their early days, is still going strong. Literally a wedge of goat cheese, this appetizer is speckled with an abundance of spices and herbs that enhance the tanginess of aged goat’s milk. With a distinct Mediterranean flair, it’s served alongside pesto, roasted garlic and lightly toasted crostini. On a recent trip, a spicy Asian version was featured, and my Impatient Gourmet companion couldn’t resist. He snatched up the savory cheesecake loaded with green chilies ($8.50) and served with spicy papaya salad.
Logan’s does good soup, made from scratch, with offerings changing depending on the time of year and mood of the chef. Soup is underrated in general, and the kitchen that turns it out well has special talent. Utility and economy are demonstrated in how creatively leftover ingredients are made into something nourishing and gratifying to the palate. Among the ones I’ve tried at Logan’s, I liked Italian wedding soup ($5.99) best. This substantial chicken broth had meatballs, wilted greens and lots of Parmesan. On another occasion I tried a simple chicken noodle ($3.99), full of dark meat and hearty vegetables. I’ve also tried tomato bisque, Thai seafood stew and lobster bisque all of them great.
Among the entrees, fish and chips ($15) gets high marks. The owner and head chef, Sonya Condrey, is British, so it stands to reason. Covered with fresh batter, fillets of cod nestle in their crispy shells. Chicken potpie ($15), a doctored English classic, was featured one evening: thick chicken stew served in a ramekin covered with delicate, buttery puff pastry. Other specialties include osso buco ($28), a classic braised veal shank with rich sauce, and free-range chicken wrapped in prosciutto and full of alluring garlic and thyme.
One thing I don’t recommend is dessert. They have an assortment of tasty treats that I would otherwise suggest if it weren’t for the way they are stored. Sweets rest in a refrigerated case, half-cut and unwrapped. On more than one occasion, I’ve ordered something that looks fabulous, only to find it tastes stale. Last time, I ordered coconut-banana cream pie ($5.50), and the filling had rich, tropical notes that were completely satisfying, but the crust tasted musty and old. So just head home for dessert.
This article appears in Dec 7-13, 2005.