While Koyla Pakistani BBQ, just down the street from the Florida Project motel, is short on looks, there’s real beauty in its fare. To the side of the restaurant, under a tent, sits a long rectangular grill with hot red coals beneath dripping skewers of beef and chicken, scenting the air — but only on Sundays. Try the bihari kebab, plush chunks of eye-of-round beef marinated in papaya paste and a bit of yogurt overnight, lending them a soft, almost creamy texture with a crusty charred exterior. A “treasured family recipe” is used for the seasoning blend, but garlic, ginger, chilies, poppy seeds and nutmeg are basic elements.

4990 W. Irlo Bronson Memorial Highway, Kissimmee, koylabbq.com

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