The trend that swept the nation in the 1990s like a Jerry Maguire catchphrase is back and better than ever, what with such linger-worthy spaces as Quicksand, Lorelei and Sparrow turning oenophiles into moan-o-philes in 2025. Each bespoke build-out expands on what predecessors Digress, Modest, Grape & the Grain and Wine Bar George started in this city, but with contemporary verve and urbane styling. Now say it with me: “Show me the pét-nat!”

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