Orlando’s restaurant world is growing by the day, and our restaurant critic is setting out to get a taste of it all. Keeping us grounded and in tune with the latest savory and sweet creations rolling out of the City Beautiful, Faiyaz Kara sat down at more than 40 new eateries this year and lived to share all the details.
From porchetta to green eggplant curry to hand-pulled Chinese noodles, here are all the restaurants we reviewed in 2023.
SUPERICA
415 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-919-6671, $$$$
Five-time James Beard Award nominee Ford Fry brings his high-caliber Tex-Mex cantina to Winter Park, and it delivers. Both the queso fundido and the tortilla soup make top-notch starters. Tacos come in hard shell, street and al carbon varieties (the crispy pork belly is luscious). A dish of heft worth considering: 36-hour smoked and grilled bone-in short rib. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettCHAYOTE BARRIO KITCHEN
480 Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-343-3003, $$$$
Chef Mario Pagan’s menu, a bill of fare rooted in his “Nueva Mesa Latina” ethos, celebrates the heritage and culinary footprint of all Hispanic cultures and Latinidad cuisine. Closed Monday. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettSUSHI SAINT
400 Pittman St., 407-412-6000, $$$
This temaki bar from Soseki’s Michael Collantes brings tropical wabi-sabi vibes to the Brew Theory Marketplace, along with a roster of impeccably crafted and purposefully pricey hand rolls. Experienced barkeeps craft scrummy cocktails. Closed Tuesday. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettThe Current Seafood Counter: Coastal-vibed seafood spot serving everything from fresh catch to shellfish. (Review) Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettFluffy Fluffy
2008 E. Colonial Dr., Orlando
Fluffy Fluffy, or Fuwa Fuwa in Japanese, is Orlando’s latest home of the souffle pancake. The Orlando outpost is the first in the nation, where you can also find croffles (croissant waffles), macarons and sorbets. Credit: photo by Rob BartlettZaru
1114 E. Colonial Drive, Orlando
Zaru’s intimate and striking 25-seat dining room features udon noodles made from Japanese flour sourced from Kagawa Prefecture, the birthplace of udon, and offered in both hot and cold options, with and without broths, along with freshly fried tempura and a host of add-ons for a custom-built bowl. Credit: photo by Rob BartlettCamille
4962 New Broad St., $$$$
Chef Tung Phan taps into his flavor memories in creating his elevated Franco-Indochine dishes and, in turn, churns out a memorable dining experience. Guests can opt from a 10-course tasting menu at the chef’s counter or a seven-course menu in the main dining room. Either way, Phan’s creative and innovative takes on Vietnamese staples makes for one of the most original meals in the city. Closed Sunday to Tuesday. Credit: photo by Rob BartlettCaravan Uzbek & Turkish Cuisine
8015 S. Orange Ave., 321-294-4444, $$
Succulent kebabs grilled over open charcoal are the main draw of this tucked-away spot in Pine Castle. Hand-pulled Uyghur-style noodles, dumplings and savory pastries are of the highest order. A bevy of cakes beg to be enjoyed with unlimited cups of Turkish tea. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettKungfu Kitchen
8466 Palm Parkway, 407-778-1649, $$
Chef Peter Song’s Orlando outpost of his famed NYC noodle and dumpling house lives up to the hype. Some of the best dumplings — be they soup, steamed or pan-fried — are presented here to the excited throngs. Noodles, offered stir-fried or soup options, are handmade, hand-pulled and hand-cut. Lines are a given, but patience pays off. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Faiyaz KaraDanilo’s Pasta Bar
East End Market, 3201 Corrine Drive, $$$$
DJ Tangalin fuses Italian, Filipino and French flavors at his second-floor East End Market pasta bar with a $75 tasting menu that’s one of the more intriguing bills of fare in the city. An à la carte menu offering everything from surf and turf pancit to milk-braised pork to eggplant caponata is available for walk-ins to enjoy at any of the window-side seats at The Neighbors. Open Thursday to Monday. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettBoil Spot Hot Pot & BBQ
8133 Vineland Ave., 407-840-1810, $$$
Boil Spot offers scores of options, enough to satisfy the most avid hot-pot and Korean barbecue enthusiast. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettPrimrose Lanes
400 N. Primrose Drive, 407-745-0862, $$$$
The unique Milk District space houses a full-scale restaurant, cocktail bar, lounge and bowling alley under one roof. A menu of elevated comfort fare is one of the most impressive of the year with everything from short rib pastrami and frites to the prime rib sandwich to, yes, the $15 hot dog. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettKavas Tacos & Tequila
9101 International Drive, 407-776-2027, $$ Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettBeirut Bakery & Deli
11757 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-286-6158, $$
Beirut Bakery & Deli on South Orange Blossom Trail, and Beirut Grill & Deli in Oviedo, lure patrons in for their Levantine baked goods, grilled meats, shawarma and sweets. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettBeirut Grill & Deli
3100 Alafaya Trail, Oviedo, 321-765-4139, $$
Beirut Bakery & Deli on South Orange Blossom Trail, and Beirut Grill & Deli in Oviedo, lure patrons in for their Levantine baked goods, grilled meats, shawarma and sweets. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettOne Lounge
5648 International Drive, 850-800-0050, $$$
While the name One Lounge doesn’t reveal much, there’s a whole lot to tell about this new International Drive restaurant. The name might land a little less generically when you consider that it may just be the one place in Orlando where a taste of Uzbekistan can be found. Even in the broad spectrum of cuisines available in the area, Uzbek food is especially obscure, which makes One Lounge immediately exciting simply by dint of its existence. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettThe Nauti Lobstah
311 S. Forest Ave., Apopka, 407-889-7980, $$$
This Apopka eatery brings wicked legit Yankee chops to the area’s seafood game. Besides being a native New Englander, classically trained chef Mike Rumplik packs ample local cred from his 15 years as executive chef at Rosen Centre Hotel, along with previous stints at the Walt Disney World Dolphin Hotel, the Peabody Orlando and the Peabody Memphis. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettMedellín Burger Steak & Bar
1349 E. Altamonte Drive, Altamonte Springs, 321-203-2256, $$$
Besides living up to its name with a whole menu section dedicated to hamburgers, Medellín Burger Steak & Bar also offers a full range of Colombian classics, with many dishes that lean toward comfort and tradition. The appetizer list, for example, revolves around Latin staples like arepas, empanadas and tostones. Medellín’s chorizo con arepa ($6.99) features exceptional whole Colombian chorizo sausage that’s much more dimensional and nuanced in seasoning than the crumbled kind often found elsewhere. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettPisco Peruvian Gastrobar will open another location in Lake Mary in late November. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettThe Mongolorian BBQ
2217 E. Colonial Drive, 407-601-6912, $$
Beginning with the name itself — a nod to Star Wars series The Mandalorian — the Mongolorian is going for modernity with pan-Asian flair. Designed with both style and pace in mind, the pulse here is brisk and vibrant. It’s a fast-casual operation where you line up at the counter, place your order at one of the touchscreen stations and then grab a table, where your food is brought hot and fresh. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettSMOKE & DONUTS
601 N. Primrose Ave., $$
The food-truck-op-turned-barbecue-joint by Culinary Institute of America grad Ian Russell and wife Juliana Peña doesn’t just smoke stellar meats, but fashions a host of outstanding cake donuts to boot. Cocktails inside the nostalgic space are proper stiff. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettTHE MODERNE
1241 E. Colonial Drive, $$$
The upscale social lounge brings an added verve to Mills 50 with its slick vibe, potent cocktails and “Asian-inspired tapas.” The 40-plus item menu has its share of hits and misses but, nevertheless, everyone seems to enjoy themselves at The Moderne. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettNORMAN’S ORLANDO
7924 Dellagio Way, 321-754-1025, $$$$
After a three-and-a-half-year hiatus, Norman’s is back in a new space with a new look and a menu with its Latin-Caribbean DNA still intact. Flavors from Japan and Southeast Asia creep into many of the dishes, which only serves to expand chef-founder Norman Van Aken’s “New World Cuisine” ethos. The 4,000-bottle wine list is just as stellar as it was before, while the tasting menu overseen by chef de cuisine Carlos Robles Molina will please the restaurant’s most avid patrons. Closed Sunday and Monday. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettFOREIGNER RESTAURANT
2816 Corrine Drive, 321-517-6985, $$$$
Chef Bruno Fonseca’s trust-the-chef confiance menu is rooted in comfort, albeit elevated, beautifully plated and impeccably dressed comfort food. The 10-course offering runs $175 and fuses flavors from Spain, Portugal and Fonseca’s native Brazil. Wine pairings go for $80 and $150 with an optional coffee service for $20 that includes macarons, bonbons and petit fours. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettFRIENDSHIP BBQ
5126 W. Colonial Drive, 407-420-7916, $$$
The import from Flushing, Queens, specializes in chuan’r, skewered morsels of spiced cumin lamb along with a bevy of other meats, seafood and veg. There are more than 50 from which to choose, but don’t pass on the lamb (natch), “Mongolia” beef, gizzards and quail. There are plenty of additional options for the curious — lamb testicles, bullfrog, pork feet to name a few. The grilled fish served in a gurgling iron hot pot is a must. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettPARK AVENUE TAVERN
558 New England Ave., Winter Park, 321-972-1469, $$$
The New York City tavern’s Winter Park outpost has all the dark-wood-and-leather vibes, but the kitchen seems content to dish out uninspired plates, be it the burger, fish and chips or flatbreads. The pastrami reuben is a solid choice, however. A restaurant more for those who haunt Hannibal Square to see and be seen. Closed Sunday. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettPAPI SMASH BURGER
60 E. Pine St., 321-231-7902, $$
Chef Chris Hernandez applies a skilled and technical approach to crafting his Latin-influenced smashburgers and the commitment pays off. His proprietary blend of beef is sizzled in mustard and American wagyu beef tallow from Snake River Farms. The tangy, crispy edge of the patty smashed with thinly shaved onions and topped with American cheese form the building blocks of one of the best burgers in the city. Burger options come with everything from caramelized bananas and sweet plantains to mojo pork and chimichurri. Shakes can be made boozy. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettCredit: Photo by Rob BartlettPIZZA BRUNO COLLEGE PARK
2429 Edgewater Drive, 407-232-2647, $$
Pizza Bruno’s College Park outpost specializes in Jersey-style pizzas of the highest order. The classic tomato pie is, naturally, a menu staple, but the simultaneously crispy and chewy crusts hold everything from soppressata to Neuske’s bacon to Calabrian chilies. House-made and extruded pastas, a College Park-only offering, are a must. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettTHE DOUGH SHOW
12140 Collegiate Way, 407-440-2050, $$ Savory and sweet Egyptian pies fashioned from feteer are the star performers at the Dough Show, but don’t overlook stellar, scratch-made shawarma, kebabs and salads. Closed Monday. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettSANSHI NOODLE HOUSE
5600 W. Colonial Drive, 407-286-6167, $$
This West Colonial Drive noodle house spotlights Yunnanese “crossing-the-bridge” noodles which places the onus on the diner to dunk meats, veg and rice noodles into a scorching hot pot of soup. Broths come in a host of varieties ranging from fish maw chicken and pork bone to pickled pepper and spicy beef. Closed Tuesday. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettMAYA CAFÉ LOUNGE & GALLERY
1980 Howell Branch Road, Winter Park, 407-968-1201, $$
Bohemian café, gallery and restaurant serves up plenty of artistry in its space and in its food and bev offerings. Of note — a chunky, dill-spiked eggplant dip, and a comforting sirloin roast. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettNORIGAMI
426 W. Plant Street St., Winter Garden, 407-347-5549, $$$
Chef David Tsan’s eight-seat sushi counter inside Plant Street Market in Winter Garden presents delectably creative bites of nigiri fashioned from the finest cuts of seafood. An omakase here runs a paltry $62 — easily one of the best values in the city. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettNORIGAMI
426 W. Plant Street St., Winter Garden, 407-347-5549, $$$ Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettMr. J Hand-Pulled Noodle
1688 E. Silver Star Road, Ocoee, 407-930-6699, $$
Chef-owner Jiqing Meng fashions Lanzhou-style hand-pulled noodles of worth from his humble little Ocoee noodle house. The beef noodle soup with its clear, warming, pho-like broth is bolstered by handmade noodles with a proper bounce, chew and bite. Noodles come in 8 varieties — try the flat (No. 1) for soups and the thick (No. 7) for stir-fries. Closed Sundays. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettNew York Beer Project
9230 Miley Drive, Winter Garden, 407-798-8304, $$
This mammoth Western New York–based brewery and gastropub in Horizon West offers plenty of brews and a worthy menu of pub grub to match. Of note: the very Buffalo beef on weck, wings and winter stew. The flight of four 5-ounce beers for $10 proves a great value. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettAtaj Moroccan Restaurant
2901 Parkway Blvd., Kissimmee, 407-507-6649, $$$
Ataj Moroccan Restaurant near Celebration doles out North African classics as well as hearty street foods playing up offal meats. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettFarm & Haus Cafe in Winter Park has closed. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettKaya
618 N. Thornton Ave., $$$
Homey modern Filipino restaurant by Kadence alums Lordfer Lalicon and Jamilyn Bailey lives up to the hype with its nostalgia-steeped interior and deeply personal dishes that forgo fried and porky fare in favor of a seafood- and vegetable-forward menu. Cocktails are grand, and beverage pairings are expertly curated. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettChilispot
4646 S. Kirkman Road, 407-730-3533, $$$
Sichuan restaurant brings the heat to the Conroy/Kirkman corridor with a tongue-tasing selection of dishes, of which bubbling, infernal stone pots are most notable. Also worth devouring: Sichuan wontons, cumin lamb, fish with pickle soup and meaty spareribs buried with an avalanche of peanuts, tien tsin chilies, green peppers, sesame seeds and peppercorns. Closed Tuesdays. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettBanana Leaf
2504 S. Alafaya Trail, 818-462-3229, $$
Florida’s only Sri Lankan restaurant has a vast and vibrant menu of staples from the island nation. Kothu roti and biryani are solid choices but for a representative sampling, pop by on weekends when a colorful buffet draws Sri Lankan diners from all over the state. Try some arrack if you dare — the Sri Lankan spirit is made from the fermented sap of coconut flowers. Closed Mondays. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettCrocante Restaurant
4311 E. Colonial Drive, 407-674-8021, $$$
It’s all about the meat at this spacious Colonialtown Puerto Rican restaurant where some of the finest porchetta is being rotisseried at the hands of chef-owner Yamuel Bigio. His churrasco and chicken ain’t too shabby either. Whet your appetite with spicy, housemade morcilla, alcapurrias or crisp, delicately fried rellenitos filled with beef. Ask for pique. End with tembleque. A full bar pours assorted cocktails. Open daily. Credit: Photo by Rob BartlettTaco Kat
11 S. Court Ave., 407-745-0730, $$
Downtown taqueria specializes in Sonoran-style tacos fashioned from imported Sonoran wheat (not corn). The pliable tortillas hold a bevy of proteins, most notably barbacoa, carne asada, pollo asado and chorizo, arguably the best of the lot. Corn esquites and tres leches shouldn’t be overlooked. Margaritas are also served and if you’re wondering about the “Kitty Cola” vending machine, it’s actually a portal into the speakeasy tequila lounge next door. Credit: Photo by Rob Bartlett
