Their tamales were chingón, whether served from a food truck, a takeout stall next to an Altamonte gas station or their colorful space inside the Hourglass Market. But eating one of Tamale Co.’s husk-wrapped cornmeal pockets inside their very own proper restaurant (with full bar, I might add) added an extra bit of relish to the experience — an experience 13 years in the making.
Owners Jennifer and Hernando Tamayo took over the Mid-Drive Dive space in College Park in January with the intent to open the restaurant in time for Cinco de Mayo. But they opened two months ahead of schedule — a rarity in the restaurant world. Not a rarity, at least inside this tastefully festooned restaurant, are the aforementioned tamales. As great as the al pastor tamale ($5.99) was with its grilled pineapple cubes, infernal chile de árbol and shredded pork filling, the “El Oaxaqueño” ($5.99) was the bundle of joy that delivered. Slathered with green tomatillo salsa, the masa pouch filled with diced sweet plantains and seasoned chicken is, like all Tamale Co.’s poultry, vegetarian and vegan tamales, made with vegetable shortening. The al pastor, as well as the other meat-filled tamales, are made with lard.
And a tub of it is what I felt like after gorging on the gorgeous block of queso frito ($14) swimming in a pool of tangy salsa verde. The crispy, pico-topped goo square arrived with three flour tortillas, but if corn turns your crank, ask for their homemade rounds. And speaking of corn, the esquites ($12) are served here on a miniature tricycle cart. In fact, for a restaurant that bills itself as a “Modern Mexican Kitchen,” they sure do love the food props. An absolutely smashing torta Milanesa ($18) had us comparing it to the sandwiches we enjoyed at La Esquina del Chilaquil in Mexico City. Only here, the breaded steak sandwich on bolillo bread stuffed with chihuahua cheese, pickled jalapeños, refried black beans, mayo, onion and avocado was served atop a miniature Mexican street food stand, complete with a miniature counter and miniature stools.
“That’s cute as hell,” I said to the dining pal.
“Yeah, but what if every table ordered the Milanesa or esquites or the churros?”
He had a point. I mean, how many miniature props do they have? Cleaning and storing them all has to be a pain. On a nearby table, I saw a miniature churro cart out of which a live sparkler lit up six sugared sticks. The cart had circular slots for dulce de leche and chocolate dips while the sparkler itself was set in, um, whipped cream. Of course we ordered it, but not before sampling birria empanadas ($12) presented on a miniature clothesline, yet another prop in Tamale Co.’s arsenal. Clothespins affixed to a trio of empanadas allowed them to dangle off a string (à la chef David Burke’s much-imitated clothesline bacon). We dipped each of the brisket-filled turnovers into a wee bowl of birria broth and another wee bowl of honey mustard. If you’re averse to double-dunking or dip-sharing, take heed.
The pear, apple and goat cheese salad ($14), colored with dried cranberries, fried carrot strips and caramelized pecans, doesn’t seem a very south-of-the-border dish, but when you consider the salad was inspired the version plated at Del Bosque Restaurante in Mexico City, it makes sense. Right down to the chipotle-honey-toasted almond vinaigrette. And it’s served prop-free!
Back to those churros: The presentation was dramatic, no doubt, but the fried dough was just a bit too stiff. So were the cocktails, like the “La Iguana” mezcalita ($16) rimmed with salt and chile pequin and the “Cadillac” margarita ($20) with its top-shelf tequila and Grand Marnier float.
Truth be told, I had hoped that College Park would embrace Mid-Drive Dive and Matt Hinckley’s ambitious menu but, alas, it was not to be. Admittedly, Tamale Co. seems a lot more accessible to the neighborhood’s denizens, and their menu drives home the point.
Tamale Co. Modern Mexican Kitchen and Bar
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This article appears in May 21-27, 2025.
