As Lake Nona’s aspiring dining scene takes shape, a notable South American edge is developing in the Orlando exurb. Thanks to the new Pisco Peruvian Gastrobar, that wave gets another shot of studied verve.
In both cooking and atmosphere, Pisco is upscale but not stuffy. A modish convergence of garden chic and Peruvian art, it’s a simultaneously elegant and vibrant place with an air of urban sophistication and a pulse of Latin house music.
Pisco does indeed live up to both the “gastro” and the “pub” in its name. A large, handsome bar sits in the center of the space, and an entire section of the bar menu is dedicated to signature pisco cocktails based on the native spirit that shares the restaurant’s namesake. But Pisco is foremost a restaurant, and its plates are where its colors shine brightest.
Few ingredients are as emblematic of Peruvian food as corn and potatoes, and Pisco honors those indigenous roots by weaving them throughout its creations. Before you even order, a small complimentary snack bowl of delicate crisps and addictively airy fried corn kernels is brought out.
In fact, the vital potato is on full spotlight with the duo de papas nativas ($12), an appetizer medley of Andean potatoes showcasing a duet of sauces. One side features huancaina sauce (made from cheese, Peruvian yellow peppers and soda crackers) and the other rocoto sauce (a similar one made from Peruvian red peppers). Both are creamy indulgences.
While a little precious for the portion, the aji de gallina croquetas ($14) are nevertheless a showstopping appetizer in looks and taste. A bite-sized interpretation of the creamy Peruvian chicken stew dish aji de gallina, the four perfect cheese croquettes pack the luxury of mozzarella and the bite of pecorino.
They sit atop a ravishing, concentric display of beautiful sauces: the aforementioned yellow huancaina sauce, a delicious purple botija olive aioli and a striking green herb oil.
While ceviche is popular in many cultures, it’s a matter of national pride and heritage in Peru. Pisco represents well, with a whole section of the menu dedicated to the acid-cured fish dish.
The ceviche clasico ($19) is a textbook Peruvian preparation that features a large portion of their catch of day — on our visit, it was the traditional corvina — cured in beautifully sharp leche de tigre marinade with herbs, corn (both cancha and choclo) and sweet potato, all topped with a wonderful heap of red onion slivers. It’s a perfect dance of fresh, bright and sweet.
On the cooked side of their seafood offerings, the pulpo a la brasa ($27) is a splashy main featuring lovely grilled and seasoned octopus tentacles plated with blistered cherry tomatoes, roast potatoes and an array of sauces that all play like a symphony of cream, zest and herbs.
Pisco’s menu also pays nice tribute to the Asian crossroads in Peruvian cuisine with rice dishes and sushi. The lomo saltado ($26) respectably showcases Peru’s chifa tradition in a Chinese-inspired main of beef tenderloin (which is cooked to the diner’s desired temperature, bravo), cherry tomatoes, scallions, onions and potato wedges all in rich soy gravy and sided with jasmine rice with corn kernels.
The culinary flair in Pisco’s kitchen very much extends to their desserts. The Pachamama ($14) is labeled as a tribute to Mother Earth, but this fine-spun plate is out of this world as a tasteful and tasty constellation of strawberry ice cream, strawberry drizzle, passion fruit crème, passion fruit caviar, lime cake bites and chocolate accents.
Beyond all the surrounding flash, the tableside vibe is moody and proper, with refined service. (To that point, an important thing to note is that an 18 percent service gratuity is added to the bill here.) It’s different, yes, but so is Pisco Peruvian Gastrobar, where authenticity is served with style.
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This article appears in Aug 9-15, 2023.