Spit take
Those quick to admonish others for playing with their food have clearly never indulged in Yamuel Bigio's "Kan Kan" porchetta ($34). This boneless round of loin and belly rotisseried for six hours inside Crocante Restaurant's East Colonial Drive kitchen yields an outer ring so shellacked, so crackling, so ... crocante, that one can't help but pick up a knife and fork and play the thing like Tito Puente on the timbales...