
My first visit to Slap Hand-Ripped Noodles happened to be on the night the restaurant (very quietly) opened. I popped in at around 8:30 p.m. — a pit stop on a late-night airport run — and took a seat at an empty booth in a largely empty restaurant. When I left, I was convinced it was the last time I’d shovel their food in such a hushed setting.
The next day, a wait for a lunchtime seat clocked in at 90 minutes, while an hour-long line — for four hours straight — greeted dinnertime guests. I’m sure the Instagram reel, however amateurish, I posted the night before didn’t help to shorten those queues, but it did reveal the mastery with which chef-owner Eric Yang, who also runs Ma Lu Bian Bian Hot Pot on West Colonial Drive, slapped and ripped those noodles before tossing them into a boiler basket.
Yang, you see, spent a fair bit of time in Xi’an, the capital city of Shaanxi Province in China, learning the art of ripping noodles and plating them into fetching, meat-filled heaps of pasta-rized porn. If you’re not transfixed by the signature three-way chili slap noodles with sliced pork cooked in vinegar and spices, lightly stewed tomato and egg, and a poached mix of potato, celery and carrot sitting atop biang biang noodles ($17), slap down an extra $8 for a luscious slab of short rib and your order will draw the envy of every waiting customer.

Also in that bowl, apart from the bok choy, sprouts, cilantro, minced garlic and chopped scallions, is a spoonful of pulverized aromatics made from nine secret spices highlighted by the qin chili, a warming pepper, not overpoweringly intense but rich in flavor, that’s native to Shaanxi. Watching the powder being scalded by a pour of hot oil is as deeply gratifying as slurping those exemplary squigglers. Those who relish a bit of sweat trickling down the neck can reach out for the house-made chili oil spiked with 17 different spices. It’s as good as it gets. And really, you can’t miss with any of their noodle bowls — I’ve been just as wowed by the cumin lamb chili slap noodles ($16) as I’ve been by the all-vegetable version ($15).
And then there are fried skewers (chuan’r) of the highest order. Both the crispy beef ($6), flattened into mini cutlets before being fried, and the chicken gizzards ($6) are my absolute faves. I was surprised that a lamb skewer — a common sight in Xinjiang, where chuan’r originated — didn’t make the cut. Yang may add them in the coming weeks but, until then, enjoy any of the current 10 skewered options. Well, except maybe the fish tofu ($6). I’d be fine with that one being replaced with lamb. And all skewers are served with two dipping condiments — a sweet chili sauce and a barbecue dry rub made with cumin, chili powder and a bit of MSG.
No matter how full you are, just get the beef and onion dumplings ($13) in chili oil. I ran into Palm Beach Meats owner Eric San Pedro on one visit and he and I couldn’t get enough of these meat pockets, even after polishing off our noodle bowls. BTW: It’s always a good idea to have a plate of cooling cucumber-garlic salad ($8) on the table, in case things get overly heated. And a bottle of imported Arctic Ocean ($3.50), the Mexican Coke of orange soda.
Slap also serves Chinese hamburgers (roujiamao), a trend that’s sure to take off once Chinese chain Bingz establishes its presence in the U.S. I sampled the “crispy pancake” filled with braised beef ($9) and it was satisfying enough. My only issue was with the baijimo — the leavened, paratha-like flatbread sandwiching the meat. Unlike Bingz, the dough here is pre-bought, not made in-house, resulting in a stiff but not-so-crispy texture.
What is crispy is the restaurant’s interior. The numerous paper lanterns hanging from the restaurant’s low ceilings, as well as the Japandi decor, lend a very intimate and inviting slant to the clamor, energy and sounds of slurping.
At Slap, that hits hard.
Slap Hand-Ripped Noodles, 6532 Carrier Drive, 407-337-6999, instagram.com/slap.noodles.usa
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This article appears in Jan. 14-20, 2026.
