Jes Tantalo Credit: courtesy Redlight Redlight

News of Redlight Redlight’s 20th anniversary had me fondly recalling the days when it was but a pint-sized beer bar above the Ballard & Corum Bakery in Hannibal Square, and when my lungs were so much more smoke-resistant. But even through the purple plumes of haze, one could tell the bar had the makings of something special.

Now, two moves and 20 years later, Redlight Redlight has established itself as one of the most notable beer houses in the South thanks to owner Brent Hernandez’s resolute passion for beer and enthusiasm for the city.

“Orlando grew on me,” says Hernandez, who intended to leave the City Beautiful after college, but developed an affinity for the “growing community I was a part of.”

Just as notable, however, is chef Jes Tantalo’s involvement in transforming the Corrine Drive stalwart into, as I stated in my review from last December, a true gastropub.

Jes Tantalo and Brett Hernandez Credit: courtesy Redlight Redlight

So no surprise the gifted chef is planning a special menu for the 20th anniversary bash slated for March 9. Tantalo will fire jerked half-chickens and skewers of Cape Canaveral white shrimp (sourced from Wild Ocean Seafood) served with jasmine rice and grilled cabbage for the masses who will inevitably flood Redlight Redlight’s parking lot.

“We’ve rented a massive grill so I could cook for a crowd,” says Tantalo. “Wild Ocean hand-process each piece of seafood and the quality is top-notch,” she says about the shrimp. “And who doesn’t love a marinated grilled chicken?”

Tantalo will also offer a plant-based option — teriyaki tempeh skewers — a protein she’s more than familiar with. “We were veg for a while when I was a kid,” she says, “and I grew up on tempeh.”

Charred Cabbage Credit: photo by Faiyaz Kara

Snacks and sides on the bill of fare include cheese and pepperoni pizza, knockwurst, chicken tenders, pretzels with queso and mustard, tater tots, corn on the cob with butter and “voodoo seasoning,” and charred cabbage with Green Goddess dressing.

Oyster Bob will also be on hand-shucking oysters, so come on out and celebrate this absolute pearl of a business on Sunday. (11 a.m. Sunday, March 9, at Redlight Redlight, 2810 Corrine Drive)

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Orlando restaurant critic. Orlando Weekly restaurant critic since 2006.