You'll battle crowds to get a seat at Brandon McGlamery's Park Avenue "it spot," but once inside, the rustic Italian creations of chef Matthew Cargo will justify the body-checking. Start with house-cured bresaola and meatballs lolling in cipollini-sweetened sauce, then indulge in Bolognese bigoli enriched with foie gras butter, or simple oven-roasted yellowtail snapper.
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