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Colombian fast-food joint serves up epic empanadas and dogs 

On the Side: Super Burger

click to enlarge HOLLY V. KAPHERR
  • Holly V. Kapherr


10042 University Blvd. | 407-842-1509 | | $

As a kid, one of my fondest memories was stepping up to the counter at Duffy’s Subs – a longstanding cheesesteak haven at the corner of University Boulevard and Dean Road. The sandwiches were drippy, oozing with greasy cheese, a real winner of a meal. The newest tenants, Super Burger, continue that lunch-counter charm, still serving the kind of food you want to eat when you’ve had one too many well drinks at the college bars down the street.

The counter-service concept is the same. Step up, place your order and sit down at a table while the cooks bark orders to each other until your food appears. The menu on the wall is slightly different than the one on the counter, so make sure to look both over before making your selections.

Super Burger’s bill of fare is brief – burgers, hot dogs, pinchos (Colombian kebabs) and some sides – with a distinctive South American twist. Everything we ordered came with crispy potato sticks as a topping or filling, which added a welcome crunchy element before they succumbed to the steam. The single burger ($5.50) was cooked to order and topped with a sweet and creamy pink pineapple-mayo-ketchup sauce. The franks at Super Burger ain’t no anemic Swedish-furniture-store dogs, either – they’re substantial, especially the ChoriDog ($5.50), a split, grilled chorizo sausage nestled in a white bun and topped with onions, cheese, potato sticks, ketchup, mustard, and green and pink pineapple sauces. The empanadas rule ($6.25 for five): Instead of pie-dough pockets, the savory fillings are enveloped in a crispy yellow corn shell. Both the chicken and beef versions are delicious, but I lean toward the beef as my favorite.

I learned that sipping the signature apple-flavored Colombian soda, Postobon ($1.55), is the only way to properly accompany a meal at Super Burger. I also appreciated the staff’s suggestion that I check in on Facebook to save 10 percent on my order. That extra-mile service, coupled with the soul-satisfying sustenance, will keep Super Burger on my “drunk food” radar.

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