HELP US KEEP REPORTING. DONATE TO ORLANDO WEEKLY PRESS CLUB.

Brown’s New York Deli recalls old New York 

Challah back at this sleek Maitland kosher deli

click to enlarge PHOTOS BY HOLLY V. KAPHERR
  • Photos by Holly V. Kapherr

BROWN’S NEW YORK DELI

1201 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland | 407- 960-6999 | brownsnydeli.com | $$

It’s difficult to describe how different my two experiences were when I lunched at Brown’s New York Deli in Maitland. The first time was frantic, tense and fraught with gaping holes, both in the service and the fare. The second visit was completely smooth, marked by satisfying and flavorful dishes and gracious service.

Brown’s fills a need. It’s an all-kosher establishment, adhering to the strict cleanliness standards set by Jewish kashrut rules, something Orlando has been sorely lacking since the closure of Amira’s Kosher Deli five years ago. This place harkens back to classic New York Jewish delis, featuring photos of NY mainstays like Lindy’s, Katz’s, Russ & Daughters and Carnegie Deli.

The homage and respect is there, and Brown’s effort is valiant, but falls short. The pastrami sandwich ($10.95) isn’t piled quite as high (though the price is pretty lofty); the brisket ($13.95) isn’t quite as meltingly tender.

The stuffed cabbage ($5.50), though, is a show-stopper, filled with savory rice and ground beef and appropriately drowned in thick, sweet tomato sauce. The long-cooked raisins lend just the right sweetness. The complimentary refillable dishes of half-sour pickles and coleslaw that appear almost instantaneously upon being seated are a happy surprise. An appropriately gigantic, fluffy matzo ball bobs in a bowl of luxuriant broth ($4.25).

Brown’s also offers a wide array of rotating house-made desserts, including linzer cookies crunchy with almond meal and raspberry jam ($1.25) and giant meringue cookies that alternate between crisp and marshmallowy ($1.25). Pick up a loaf of fresh, eggy challah for French toast or sandwiches ($3.85).

The main difference between my two experiences was the hour: The first time we visited during peak, standing-room-only weekend brunch, and the second was at an off-peak hour. Forewarned is forearmed: It’s worth waiting until the place is pretty empty to skip the harried service and get down to the nosh.

We welcome readers to submit letters regarding articles and content in Orlando Weekly. Letters should be a minimum of 150 words, refer to content that has appeared on Orlando Weekly, and must include the writer's full name, address, and phone number for verification purposes. No attachments will be considered. Writers of letters selected for publication will be notified via email. Letters may be edited and shortened for space.

Email us at feedback@orlandoweekly.com.

Orlando Weekly works for you, and your support is essential.

Our small but mighty local team works tirelessly to bring you high-quality, uncensored news and cultural coverage of Central Florida.

Unlike many newspapers, ours is free – and we'd like to keep it that way, because we believe, now more than ever, everyone deserves access to accurate, independent coverage of their community.

Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing pledge, your support helps keep Orlando’s true free press free.

Newsletters

Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Read the Digital Print Issue

October 21, 2020

View more issues

Calendar

© 2020 Orlando Weekly

Website powered by Foundation