Bite of Brooklyn's beachy resort 

Coney's Swirls and Curls is small but steeped in traditional Coney Island ambience and remnants. Piped-in oldies float over the whole scene, so all that's missing is the boardwalk and the sand.

Place your order at the counter and watch as the cooks stuff crisp-edged, footlong hot dogs into thick rolls and dress them with chili, mustard and onions. Then start munching. A gaudy marquee and a faded American flag stand guard over umbrella-topped tables out front, but most people hop back into their cars to eat.

Most everything on the menu can be had for less than $2, including quarter-pound burgers stuffed with pickles, onions and the works. But Philly cheese steaks cost up to $6.25 each. Try the Coney's namesakes at least once: rich cones "swirled" in chocolate and salty, hot "curly" fries in paper cups.

Speaking of On The Side


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