Bite 2016: Urbain 40 American Brasserie & Lounge

Jean-Stephane Poinard

Bite 2016: Urbain 40  American Brasserie & Lounge
Photo by Rob Bartlett

Urbain 40's Jean-Stephane Poinard, representing the fifth generation of one of Lyon's cooking dynasties, has parlayed an exceptional gastronomic pedigree into an equally exceptional culinary career. His father, Jean-François Poinard, was hailed as one of France's great chefs of the 1970s and '80s before his untimely death in 2010. Lyon newspaper Le Progrès said of the elder Poinard, "He was a passionate and exacting chef, but also a true 'bon viveur.'"

Seems the pomme doesn't fall far from the arbre. Poinard the younger has made Dr. Phillips brasserie Urbain 40 a destination dining locale, thanks to his culinary verve and panache. Poinard's stratified crêpe urbain — layered with wild mushrooms and oven-dried tomatoes, then drizzled with a fig reduction and roasted-leek beurre blanc — is a reflection of not only his own style, but of France's terroir and culinary techniques, and typifies the sort of crossroads dish for which Lyonnaise cuisine is known.

8000 Via Dellagio Way, 407-872-2640; $$$$

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