The Nauti Lobstah brings quality New England seafood and kitchen cred to Apopka

The first thing that a restaurant named "The Nauti Lobstah" signals is a focus on New England seafood. The second is that they probably misjudged their patience for the pathetic attempts at Boston accents the name would trigger from us Southerners.

Nevertheless, this Apopka eatery brings wicked legit Yankee chops to the area's seafood game. Besides being a native New Englander, classically trained chef Mike Rumplik packs ample local cred from his 15 years as executive chef at Rosen Centre Hotel, along with previous stints at the Walt Disney World Dolphin Hotel, the Peabody Orlando and the Peabody Memphis.

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photo by Rob Bartlett

Formerly the Catfish Place, Apopka’s Nauti Lobstah keeps the homey feel

Prior to becoming the Nauti Lobstah in December 2020, this spot was homey, Southern-style seafood diner the Catfish Place for nearly four decades. While they've respectfully kept some of the Catfish Place's classic dishes on their menu for the longtime locals, the Lobstah is flexing its accomplished culinary muscle to make its own mark. Considering how bustling the place is now, it's clear they've already become new darlings. And the reasons for that are many.

While they offer a range of ocean bounty across main plates, sandwiches and appetizers, the emphasis is on shellfish. No purer way to dive in first than with raw East Coast oysters on the half shell (market price — on our visit, $14 per half dozen or $21 per dozen). The Virginia Blue Point oysters were large, sweet and, most importantly, fresh — all served traditionally with cocktail sauce, horseradish, lemon wedges and saltines. If raw's not your thing, they also offer them fried or casino style.

There are few New England dishes as iconic as clam chowder (spelled here as "chowdah," of course), and Rumplik's signature recipe ($8 for a cup, $10 for a bowl) makes most other versions of white chowder seem like bowls of hearty nothingness. With enough seasoning and herb notes to match the cream, the Lobstah's chowder packs full, robust flavor.

Another outstanding shellfish appetizer is the steamed littleneck clams (market price — on our visit, $17), which are prepared classically in a rich, buttery white-wine broth punctuated by garlic, basil and bright tomato chunks, with grilled focaccia slices for dipping.

Even more casual starters like onion rings ($8) are done well as big, thick-cut onions in nicely crisp batter, served alongside dips of house-made horseradish cream sauce and ranch.

Regarding the namesake delicacy, there's a range of lobster options here that go from prim tails to grand stuffed three-pounders. But they offer good whole lobster specials throughout the week (Tuesday-Wednesday, $25; Thursday-Saturday, $35; includes one side) that feature an entire one-pound boiled Maine lobster cooked just right and served with drawn butter and lemon wedges. We had ours with a side of their tasty and not overly creamed spinach.

Even more of this kitchen's regional specialty is found in their New England lobster — OK, OK, lobstah — roll ($28). From the very sweet meat here and in the whole lobster, it's clear they use primo product. The already succulent lobster chunks are made even more so with a dressing of rich but not smothering mayo that absolutely sings with fresh herbs and celery. The elevated mélange comes nestled in the buttery goodness of Bibb lettuce and lightly toasted New England brioche roll. Among the many options from which to choose your two included sides, definitely consider pairing this sandwich with the homemade potato chips, which are delicious on their own but absolutely next-level with their piquant cream dip.

While the dining room has been spiffed up, a rustic maritime theme still defines the ambience. But between the atmosphere and the menu alike, the coziness served up at the Nauti Lobstah belies the dramatic sea change that's happened at this longtime seafood stand since they took over. With a new regional point of view, new level of cooking and noteworthy hospitality, the Nauti Lobstah is a perfect Nor'easter of quality and comfort.

click to enlarge

photo by Rob Bartlett

The Nauti stands for "nautical"