Peasant-style pizza in Village

Pizza is more or less just a slab of cooked dough with stuff on it, so how hard can making a good one be? Judging by what passes for pizza these days, it's not as as easy at it sounds.

Fortunately, the newly opened Pizzeria Valdiano in Winter Park Village (510 N. Orlando Ave.; 407-628-5333) has the technique down. And its next-door proximity to the Regal cinemas there, will help the word spread quickly.

Casual and inexpensive, Pizzeria Valdiano (referring to the Vallo di Diano area of Italy, known for great peasant food) serves up the basics of cheese and toppings, along with specialties like "pizza Gamberetti" (shrimp, oil and garlic), "Fiorentina" (spinach and artichoke), and "Valdiano" (sausage, pepperoni, meatballs and veggies). The crust is breadlike and crisp at the same time, and the smells are so wonderful you'll start drooling at the front door.

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