Passage to India via All Spices

Anyone who lives in Orlando and loves Indian cuisine has two options: Visit the same handful of local Indian restaurants over and over, or learn how to cook. The latter is more likely with the opening of All Spices of India (2319 Mount Vernon St., off Bumby Avenue; 896-5700).

This Colonialtown market is nothing fancy, and it's quite small. But two narrow aisles are crowded with the basics for a culinary escape. There are bags of assorted lentils, basmati rice, various curry powders and delicacies such as pickled mangoes.

If you're not in the mood to cook, take home the spicy fried vegetarian "samosa" pastries, filled with minced vegetables (89 cents each). Among the snacks, try sweet, creamy panir cubes, which have the texture of tofu ($5.99/lb.). Or sample the cashews coated with crushed red-chili peppers ($5.99/lb.).

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