GOOD, BETTER, WURST


Diners in search of a little gemütlichkeit (friendly atmosphere) with their brats and wursts will be happy to know that Bauern-Stube is back in business. The quaint South Orange Avenue gasthaus reopened last September after a raging fire in Christmas 2005 shut it down, and from the looks of it, you wouldn't even know the place burned to the ground. Like a beer hall in grandma's dining room, the charming ambience is marked by country-style furnishings; ceramic knickknacks, decorative steins and woolly teddy bears lend to its clutter-chic.

Catchy oom-pah tunes will sway your stein of Erdinger while you wait for such dishes as sauerbraten with spiced gravy, paprika rotisserie chicken and Bavarian sausage feast. Service can be a tad tepid when only one waitress works the room, and a 15 percent gratuity is automatically added to your bill, no matter how many in your party. Live German music on Fridays and Saturdays packs 'em in, so arrive early and eat up the kitsch.

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