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Thursday, September 4, 2008

Mmmm'goy

Posted on Thu, Sep 4, 2008 at 4:00 AM

I found myself uttering the common Cantonese refrain m'goy (or 'thank youâ?�) repeatedly at this modest corner noodle house where roasted birds dangle as freely as modifiers in a high school English essay. No matter the language, the dishes here ' cheap, authentic and downright delicious ' speak for themselves.

Curry-infused Singapore rice noodles ($9.50) ruled, each pan-fried thread pungent with the essence of the wok and with enough shrimp and pork to realize a Levitical nightmare. A swell of thick, flat noodles glistened in the beef chow fun ($9.50), textured with a bushel of crunchy scallions and bean sprouts and layered with tender slices of beef. As far as the suspended fowl is concerned, appetizer portions of roast duck ($5.95) and chicken ($5.25), hacked into bite-sized chunks and served with a secret dip ' soy sauce and sesame oil were the only ingredients I was able to glean ' offer a proper juicy-to-crisp ratio.

Adventuresome gastronomes can have a field day with dishes from duck feet to jellyfish to beef tendon congee, while daily specials are handwritten and posted on a rack near the kitchen. The space is small, relatively unadorned and perpetually bustling with families, though heads are typically buried in bowls. The red-and-black-clad waitresses are quick, efficient and always poised to educate the uninitiated, but if you're really craving a Sino-American staple, you can get your fill of General Tso's chicken too.

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