Thursday, April 1, 2004

Gravy from ear to ear

Posted on Thu, Apr 1, 2004 at 4:00 AM

You have to be very comfortable with someone to eat a genuine New Orleans-style roast beef and gravy po'boy in front of them. What makes it so good is what makes it so messy -- the slices of simmered roast beef smothered in rich, smooth gravy ladled over fresh French bread that soaks up the sauce. As soon as you pick it up and bite in, everything goes everywhere, sliding around in that finger-licking gravy, changing shapes and textures in the color of brown. There's no hiding.

Here in town, it's been possible to re-enact this authentic experience for $5.95 at Jockamo's in Fern Park (7800 S. U.S. Highway 17-92; 407-834-0220), down the road from Orlando Jai-Alai. And the rest of Jockamo's menu stacks up similarly: muffulettas better than some of the best in the Crescent City ($4.75 half, $10.75 whole); simply styled red beans herbed with bay leaf over rice (from $1.59 for a cup to $6.79 a quart); and every-man-priced portions of jambalaya ($2.59-$9.59), crawfish etouffée ($3.39-$12.99) and gumbo ($2.99- $11.79). Only the beignets don't hold up -- the deep-fried rectangles sprinkled with powdered sugar are made from frozen dough that doesn't do the job.

My other gripe about Jockamo's was that it closed at 3 p.m. and didn't open on Sunday. But the new south-side Jockamo's that opened in early March stays open later (11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, until 3 p.m. Sunday). The new space is oddly tucked into a sprawling Wal-Mart/Lowe's plaza, but there's more room inside to enjoy the same menu, plus daily specials.


We welcome readers to submit letters regarding articles and content in Orlando Weekly. Letters should be a minimum of 150 words, refer to content that has appeared on Orlando Weekly, and must include the writer's full name, address, and phone number for verification purposes. No attachments will be considered. Writers of letters selected for publication will be notified via email. Letters may be edited and shortened for space.

Email us at

Orlando Weekly works for you, and your support is essential.

Our small but mighty local team works tirelessly to bring you high-quality, uncensored news and cultural coverage of Central Florida.

Unlike many newspapers, ours is free – and we'd like to keep it that way, because we believe, now more than ever, everyone deserves access to accurate, independent coverage of their community.

Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing pledge, your support helps keep Orlando’s true free press free.


Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Read the Digital Print Issue

April 7, 2021

View more issues


© 2021 Orlando Weekly

Website powered by Foundation