Upscale Cellar stands ground 

If you miss the overall eclecticism of the former Park Avenue Wine & Cheese Cellar, where a little pot of mustard could cost more than a vintage Port, a leisurely trip up to Heathrow can help to stop cravings for French wine, Belgian chocolate and Italian vinegar.

We don't have basements here, so Pierre's Wine Cellar (1220 Inter-national Parkway South; 407-805-8887) isn't literally underground, but more fittingly sited at the upscale Shoppes at Oakmonte.

Owned by the Uteschill family, Pierre's shows its French heritage with a large selection of vintages, both ordinaire and otherwise, from Alsace and Bordeaux, along with wines from around the world. There's an assortment of cheeses (like a lovely Rouleau Provence), crystal stemware and decanters, gourmet oils and spiffy designer corkscrews. There are regular tastings, and special orders (a case of my favorite Long Flat Red?) are welcome.

Speaking of On The Side


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