Vietnam Town, the colossus of the Asian district, rises again after a renovation that cured the restaurant of its dwarfing interior. Not only is the space more intimate, the décor is now welcoming, its former stilted garishness muted by a playful tropical motif.

The menu, too, has been retooled. Though the food was good before, the selection was kept broad to be all things to all people. Now it's shorter, more focused and distinctively gourmet, encompassing exotic Asian items and some chef's specials with an unexpected European bent (like beef tenderloin Dijonnaise and tournedos in a mushroom and red wine sauce). Even traditional classics like bun thit nuong (vermicelli with grilled pork) are now plated unconventionally and with more flair. The decision to be more interesting than your virtually identical neighbors is always something to applaud.

(1101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-9698)

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