Straight-up, well-executed Northern Vietnamese fare is sure to keep this new kid on the block. Of note: refreshing pho and duck soup; crisp, roasted quail with lime-salt-pepper dip; peppery fried squid; and corpulent summer rolls stuffed with shrimp and pork. Desserts are thin on the ground but heart-joltingly strong, and sweet Vietnamese coffee will ensure an eye-opening drive home.
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