When we first reviewed Cityfish in 2008, we noted that the fish and chips were “good enough to make Maritimers swoon with nostalgia, while the peppery tilapia fillets in the tortilla salad are about the finest you’ll have.” Praise indeed, but times change, and so do restaurants. Greg Richie, formerly of Emeril’s Tchoup Chop, has taken over the kitchen of Cityfish, and diners can expect big changes to both the menu and the room.
In place of the previous casual comfort food offerings, Richie’s newly tweaked menu makes clear his twin interests: sticking to responsible food ethics – “especially in relation to seafood, which can be affected by unprincipled fishing and harvesting practices” – and giving his guests the best possible experience. “We’re sourcing a better variety of seasonal fresh fish and we’re expanding our oyster selection, as well,” says Richie. “We want to show our guests how different oysters can be. Much like a fine wine or cheese, the texture and flavor of each oyster can be influenced by the terroir, as well as the species.” But his kitchen also puts a focus on fresh, local ingredients: “Equally important to me is sourcing as many of our products as possible from local purveyors, especially the fish that our Florida waters have to offer.”
617 E. Central Blvd., 407-849-9779; $$$
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