; Orlando seems to have settled into something like the spring weather experienced north of here (though a few months early): off-and-on drizzle, days that are warm in the sun but chilly in the shade, and cool, breezy nights. This mixed-up climate is perfect for the most civilized of Italian treats, affogato.

;; It's the simplest thing: a shot or two of espresso poured over a single scoop of gelato or vanilla ice cream. (Affogato means "drowned" in Italian.) This may seem like a minimalist dessert, austere even; simple it is, but plain it isn't. When the bitter espresso laps at the frozen sphere, it foams at the edges and sweet icy bits float into the coffee. Bitter and sweet, hot and cold, liquid and solid, black and white play against each other, equaling much more than the sum of the parts.

Speaking of On The Side


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