The waiter approaches, bearing a white plate topped with a glass cloche filled with an opaque white cloud. The cloche is removed, the smoke shimmies above the plate for a moment in a fragrant swirl, and then as it disperses, all heads turn toward your table, seeking the source of that woodsy aroma. Listed somewhat unassumingly on the menu as “smoked duck,” this stunning dish is a high point of Scratch’s menu. The succulent lavender-cured duck breast medallions sided with maque-choux and scattered with pea tendrils are delectable on their own, but the high theater of its arrival puts it over the top.
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